mengenal komponen carb wave 125S

mengenal komponen carb wave 125Sni gmbar skru timing & skru angin.
yg 1st dari kiri yg kedalam sikit tu,itu skru angin
yg 2nd dari kiri yg terjojol@terklua sikit tu,itu skru timing
jgn salah pusing ye.kang meletop naik bumbung.

ni gmba cap sliding + spring sliding + sliding + jarum pic ni ikot susunan.mcm ni lah disusun dlm carb nnti.jgn silap pulak ye. lobang kat sliding tu tmpat masuk kat cable throtel.masukkan ikot situ. then sangkut kn die kat bwh skali tu.ikot je alur lobang tu kebawah.

ni gmba perut carb.kat sini ada mainjet,pilotjet,pelampung,dan ape bnde tah kecik kat pelampung tu.
aku pnggil die roket.mcm tu lah kedudukan die dlm perut carb ye.
yg putih die pelampung.bwh pelampung tu ada roket ( tk nmpak ).then 1st lobang dari pelambung tu
ada mainjet + holder mainjet.
lobang lagi 1 tu yg last itu pilotjet.
lepas bukak smue die jadi kosong cmtu.
setelah dibukak smue.ni yg ada dlm perut carb tu

gmba no 4 tu mainjet dgn holder die.mainjet tk dpt nk bukak.sbb dh hancur.hehe
mainjet yg ats tu.yg kecik.yg bwh die tu holder die.yg mcm nat tu holder die.ats die tu mainjet

gmba no 5 tu pilot jet.

gmba no 6 tu pelampung + sendal + roket

cara setting carb part 3 (servis carb)

cara setting carb : part 3 (servis carb)  

Saiz Mainjet & Pilotjet Dipasaran

Saiz Pilot Dipasaran : die akan naik 2.5# (cth : 22.5,25.0,27.5,30.0)

Saiz Mainjet Dipasaran : die akan naik 5# (cth : 80,85,90,95)

*ni utk carb wave100,wave125,ts,kriss, dll.tp ada yg dijual tk ikot saiz ni,ikot carb jgk.*

Saiz Carb

lagenda:mikuni 18mm
kriss:keihin 18mm
wave125:keihin 18mm (lain model dgn kriss)
cepai/wave100:keihin 16mm/17mm (xpasti)
shogun:keihin 18mm (dgn TPS)
135LC:mikuni 22mm (dgn TPS+accelerator pump)
125z:mikuni 22mm
135rxz:mikuni 24mm
moskito:keihin CV24mm
gtr:keihin CV24mm
vs125/150:mikuni CV26mm
ego/nuvo:mikuni CV26mm
jaguh:mikuni CV28mm
fx125/belang:mikuni CV26mm
fxr:mikuni CV29mm
kips:keihin PE28mm/keihin PWK28mm
nsr:keihin pe28mm
tzm:mikuni 30mm

p/s:maybe ada beberapa carb yg kurang tepat jenamanya  

(rujukan)

*plug reading guide--->http://members.uia.net/pkelley2/sparkplugreading.html

*lagi panduan plug--->http://www.4secondsflat.com/Spark_plug_reading.html

*panduan plug--->http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_support/spark_plugs/faqs/faqread.asp

*tentang carb--->http://www.transworldmotocross.com/mx/how_to/article/0,13190,1018579,00.html

*mikuni theory--->http://www.iwt.com.au/mikunicarb.htm

*istilah nisbah minyak-udara (air-fuel ratio)--->http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Air-fuel_ratio

*carb tuning--->http://www.factorypro.com/tech_tuning_procedures/tuning_carbtune,CV,high_rpm_engines.html

*video set carb--->http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rcPLtvXcUf8

*ts + airbox---> http://malaysianbikers.com.my/forum/index.php/topic,57591.120.html

*how to set pilot screw--->http://www.exriders.com/archive/topic/229923-1.html

*the fuel screw--->http://www.thumperfaq.com/fuel_screw.htm

*Set Standard Carb PWK Dinyatakan ---> http://www.keihin-us.com/pwk.htm

*Set Standard Carb PE Lak ---> http://www.keihin-us.com/pe.htm

cara setting carb part 1 (pengenalan)

cara setting carb  part 1  (pengenalan)

Adjusting: The airscrew requires a flathead screwdriver for adjustments. Start by turning the screw clockwise all the way in until it reaches its closed position. A good rule of thumb is to go all the way in and then back it out one and a half turns. From there, turn it in or out until your bike feels like it has just the right amount of snap on the bottom end. The minimum adjustment is generally about one full turn out, and the maximum that you'll ever want to go is about two and a half turns out. If you're anywhere out of that range, look at changing the size of the pilot jet.

kalau enjin cepat panas tu skrew angin xcukup bukak bnyk sangat..aku dulu angin main pulas-pulas ...hangat wooo...terlalu rich lean kot org putih kata...

camni:
*kalo setting carb lean=senang nk hidup waktu sejuk (terutama waktu pagi)..tetapi time running boleh menyebabkan kerosakan pada enjin kerana suhu combustion chamber yg terlampau panas(valve bengkok/piston berlubang/PV cair@patah/motor jem panas)
*kalo setting carb rich= agak sukar nk hidup waktu sejuk(sebab myk lebih n plug masih sejuk-pembakaran kurg sempurna)...tp kalau terlalu rich plug juga cepat "kong"(sebab plug ada heat range khas utk membolehkan fungsi self-cleaning pd elektrod plug)...(combustion chamber pun kotor@performance drop)...
**jadi kene carik setting yg balance antara dua tersebut...


sedikit panduan ..
1. Cari kamus
2. Bace ni

BIKE WON'T START AFTER A CRASH HEAVY USAGE/ENGINE TEMP. HIGH

Pilot too lean

Idle set too high

Improper starting procedure

Bike wants hot-start button (KTMs and 400Fs)

BIKE RUNS ON OR WONT IDLE DOWN WHEN THROTTLE IS CHOPPED

Idle set too high

Air leak in intake or engine

Pilot too rich (when bike is hot)

BIKE WONT START WHEN COLD OUTSIDE

BIKE SPUTTERS/WONT CLEAN OUT AT HIGH RPM

Main jet too rich

Air filter over-oiled

Spark plug has debris on electrode

BIKE COUGHS & STALLS IN SLOW TURNS

Pilot jet too lean

Idle set too low

Valves set too tight

Decompressor is set too tight, so turning the bars engages release slightly

BIKE HESITATES OR BOGS OVER DEEP WHOOPS OR G-0UTS

Float level too low

Carb vent tubes blocked

Main jet splash shield not installed

Float level too high, gas is trapped in vent tunes (install T-vents)

BIKE STARTS BUT WONT TAKE THROTTLE WITHOUT SPUTTERING

Pilot jet too rich

Water in fuel

Debris in main jet

BIKE SUDDENLY STARTS SPUTTERING/GAS FLOWS FROM VENT TUBES

Stuck float check valve

Debris in gas or carb

BIKE RUNS HOT/FEELS SLOW & FLAT ON STRAIGHTS

Main jet too lean

Fuel octane too low, causing detonation

BIKE COUGHS & STALLS WHEN YOU WICK OPEN THROTTLE

Needle too lean

Slide cutaway too lean

Pumper circuit blocked or too lean


ermmm..ni bab ni dah kire masuk dalam pengeluwapan petrol kat dalam carb tuh..

(kalau sape tau camne air-cond berfungsi akan faham mende nih)

-petrol menyerap tenaga haba untuk menjadi wap....maka apabila haba disekitar(dekat carb) dah kene serap maka body carb turut menjadi sejuk....(biler dah sejuk kondensasi berlaku maka carb pun berpeluh)


jarum lbh baik jgn adjust lgsg...letak kt takuk tgh je klip jarum tu....

plug perang dh cukup bagus lar tu...lbh2 nnt minyak kuat + bwk slow blh sbbkan plug cpt kong..
melainkan nk setting jln jauh/ men highway, mmg kene bg jd coklat gelap skit...

ni setting yg biase aku lalui lar...lain org lain skill...
ada org setting men pulas2 minyak smpai nk pecah enjin, pastu tgk plug..
ada org setting try set kt jln, kalo rasa tak cun, baru setting blk..

tmpt aku punya setting, try bwk,tarik gear 1,2,3 pastu mati enjin,tgk plug...
nk set tgk plug ni lbh baik pakai plug yg lama, biar ada carbon skit2...
plug baru nnt ssh plak nk tgk die punya color..

tgk kt plug...
-kalo semua putih = pilot kecik, menjet kecik
-kalo tgh putih, tepi2 hitam = menjet kecik, pilot besar
-kalo tgk tgh hitam, tepi2 putih = menjet besar, pilot kecik

-kalo tgh coklat tp tepi putih = menjet dh cun, pilot kasi up skit
-kalo tepi coklat tp tgh hitam = pilot dh cun, menjet kene kecikkan

-kalo plug dh coklat cun tp mcm ada kelabu2 skit = 2T kurang

lain bengkel, lain cara...yg penting, hasil akhir, dpt setting yg cun....


Aku ader satu cara setting carb yg lain dari semua,
biasanya aku setting untuk carb Uma racing...
caranya sangat senang bagi mereka yg tak tau
nak set carb jenis powerjet nih,
first cari moto yg sama pakai carb tu,
start dan rem biar sama bunyi ngan moto kita.
tune sampai betul2 sama.
aku tak gerenti 100% jadi,
tapi comform bole jalan....